Why the ‘coquette-core’ aesthetic is making a comeback

What the early 2000s trend tells us about reclaiming femininity

Image by: Herbert Wang
Coquette core is currently trending on Tik Tok.

I used to hate the colour pink.

As young girls, we’re inundated with expectations to like the colour pink. From the outfit we wear home from the hospital to the colour of our bedroom walls, everything is pink. But like many other young women, I grew up with a seemingly inexplicable vendetta against the rosy hue.

For many years, my favourite colour was green—at least that’s what I told people. Not too girly, not too masculine, it was the perfect in between.

This antipathy toward the colour persisted until recently, manifesting in an active avoidance. Questions about my favourite hue were inevitably met with remarks like, “but you don’t wear any pink,” a statement that held undeniable truth. Pink, in my eyes, was forever associated with excessive femininity, a trait I sought to distance myself from.

Now, thanks to the coquette aesthetic, all things pink and hyper-feminine are in.

First popularized in 2021, the coquette aesthetic, or coquette-core, is taking over the internet once again. The aesthetic emphasizes pink everything, including frills, lace, satin, ribbons in your hair, and touches of vintage charm. Basically, if Lana Del Rey’s 2012 album Born to Die and Sofia Coppola’s 2006 film Marie Antoinette had a baby. The aesthetic exudes both beauty and nostalgia.

However, as enchanting, and reminiscent as this style may be, it isn’t devoid of controversy. The term “coquette” is defined as “the woman who flirts,” suggesting individuals who embrace coquette fashion are seeking voyeuristic male attention.

Critics of coquette fashion have also highlighted its tendency to promote a youthful appearance, contributing to the infantilization of women. This critique gains significance as coquette-core draws inspiration from the Lolita look—a Japanese subculture of people who enjoy dressing in Victorian and Rococo-era fashion.

The Lolita aesthetic—also known as Nymphet aesthetic—is named after Vladimir Nobakov’s 1955 novel, Lolita. Told from the point of view of the stepfather, the novel narrates the disturbing tale of 12-year-old Lolita as she becomes the object of predatory desire for her 37-year-old stepfather.

Drawing inspiration from the novel, the Lolita aesthetic fuels the infantilization of women by glorifying symbols of youth and innocence in fashion.

By romanticizing elements associated with prepubescent girls, this aesthetic inadvertently perpetuates a cultural narrative that diminishes feminine presenting women as childlike figures, reinforcing a troubling stereotype that blurs the line between self-expression and the normalized confinement of women to a perpetual state of juvenility that reinforces objectification and restrictive societal roles.

While the coquette and Lolita aesthetics share some visual similarities, both incorporating elements like ribbon, lace, and vintage-inspired details, they differ in their underlying themes. The coquette aesthetic is more than just a trend; it’s a movement that empowers women to embrace their femininity without conforming to societal expectations.

Unlike the more transient trends on our TikTok feeds, coquette-core goes beyond the superficiality of fashion, urging individuals to reclaim and celebrate traditionally feminine aesthetics without succumbing to predefined societal norms.

By encouraging the incorporation of elements like ribbons and lace, the aesthetic empowers women to break free from the constraints of conventional expectations, offering a canvas for self-expression that is both liberating and transformative.

On the other hand, the Lolita aesthetic is associated with more problematic undertones, particularly in its potential to romanticize inappropriate relationships and contribute to the infantilization of women. However, the coquette aesthetic steers away from such concerns, prioritizing a positive reclamation of femininity that is rooted in self-affirmation and autonomy.

The resurgence of pink in coquette-core isn’t about succumbing to old stereotypes but rather reclaiming and celebrating the power of the feminine. The beauty of the aesthetic lies in its ability to transform the perception of pink from a symbol of conformity to a symbol of strength.

It encourages women to wear pink proudly, not as a forced choice but as an expression of their individuality. It’s about rediscovering the joy in traditionally feminine elements, from soft hues to delicate ribbons and vintage-inspired details.

As someone who once shied away from the colour pink, I find liberation in coquette-core. The movement isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s about rewriting the narrative and challenging century old norms.

As a now 20-year-old, adding bows to my hair and wearing the colour pink through the coquette-core lens has become a transformative act of self-love, allowing me to heal my inner child. These seemingly simple adornments serve as symbols of embracing the joy and innocence I once disdained myself from, fostering a sense of liberation and empowerment that extends far beyond aesthetic choices.

Now, when people ask me about my favourite colour, I proudly say pink, adorned with ribbons in my hair and a vintage heart locket. Coquette-core has given me the courage to reclaim my femininity on my own .

If only I could go back in time and tell my younger self not to be ashamed of the colour pink.

Tags

Womanhood

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